The complicated history of surfing - Scott Laderman

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For some, it's a serious sport. For others, just a way to let loose. But despite its casual association with fun and sun, surfing has a richer and deeper history than many realize. What we today call surfing originated in the Polynesian islands of the Pacific Ocean. We know from various accounts that wave riding was done throughout the Polynesian Pacific, as well as in West Africa and Peru. But it was in the Hawaiian archipelago in particular that surfing advanced the most, was best documented, and, unlike elsewhere in Polynesia, persisted. And for the people of Hawaii, wave sliding was not just a recreational activity, but one with spiritual and social significance. Like much of Hawaiian society, nearly every aspect of surfing was govern...
The complicated history of surfing - Scott Laderman
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